Andrew Dominick

When we introduced our readers to The Village in the summer of 2021, we knew we’d be back relatively soon thereafter. No, it’s not to talk about beer and smash burgers at Cisco Brewers. It has nothing to do with the special pop-up dinners you may have peeped on Instagram.

This brief sequel takes us back to The Wheel where they’ve just begun wheeling out Sunday brunch service. Brunch here is short, only from 10 a.m. – 3 p.m., with a small, breakfasty menu. Some of it is salty, some is sweet, and there’s lots of yolky goodness to be had.

But who hits up brunch without booze? And in the case of The Wheel…tunes. Drink beer, or wine, and they’ll allow you to order a cocktail from their afternoon menu (I had a Sazerac after my White Russian), but the focus here is light and bubbly or bloody. Refreshing mimosas and bellinis are available by the glass but where’s the fun in that? The Wheel has an option where brunchers can choose their sparkling wine, then fresh squeezed fruit juice mixers, and even ginger, crème de menthe, or Aperol. It arrives at your table in a wooden serving tray, DIY style. Mix and drink.

Bloodies—in Mary form (with vodka) or the tequila-based Maria—are also a brunch staple at The Wheel, as are Cisco beers, other local craft selections, and a boozy milkshake-like White Russian, blended in part with Stamford-based Rise Oat Milk Vanilla Coffee.

While you sip, enjoy the tunes. This is a jazz brunch after all. Most often you’ll catch local musicians or bands that are brought in by Greenwich resident Pete Francis of Dispatch fame. On the off chance that Pete is hanging out, expect him to join in on a few sets.

By now you should have figured out what you’re brunching on besides alcohol.

Like I mentioned earlier, The Wheel’s Sunday Funday menu is succinct. If you’ve been before, you’ll notice a trio of the restaurant’s dinnertime staples offered at brunch, namely the locally sourced Lioni burrata with strawberries and basil, tuna tartare, their big, beefy burger, and a lobster roll.

More morning appropriate fare appears like a shareable buttermilk banana bread—seriously, try it. I don’t even get down with banana bread like that. This one isn’t dry, the banana isn’t too…banana-y. It’s made with love, and whipped butter to spread all over it doesn’t hurt either. Other starters are fire bread with hot honey and whipped ricotta, a lox plate with bagel chips and proper accompaniments, and a not so shareable yogurt parfait.

Wood-fired Neapolitan pizza shows up as it does at dinnertime, but this time you have only two to choose from, a saucy margherita or a black truffle pie with Mystic’s own Seacoast Mushrooms. The kicker? Add an egg any style to your pizza and magically it’s brunch.

The yolkiness continues with steak & eggs; avocado toast with poached eggs, smoked ricotta, and Anaheim chili salsa; eggs Benedict with prosciutto instead of traditional Canadian bacon; and a savory braised short rib “hash” with crispy potato rosti, jalapeño hollandaise, and you guessed it, a poached egg ready for a yolk eruption.

And like we mentioned in the first article about The Wheel, Alessandra Altieri Lopez’s desserts should be mandatory. Some of what was offered at the time of brunch were that same airy, creamy pistachio cheesecake that I sampled over the summer and a sundae with homemade salted caramel ice cream, crunchy caramel peanut popcorn, and Valrhona Manjari hot fudge, a fruitier mostly dark chocolate.

That’s all for now. But like I said back in August, there will be a lot happening here, so I’m sure there will be a follow up on another one of The Wheel’s “spokes” or on some newsworthy happening at The Village. Until then…brunch. Go earn that Sunday nap.

4 Star Point; Stamford
475.270.1300; thevillagewheel.com

Source: https://www.ctbites.com/blog/2021/10/29/the-wheel-debuts-sunday-jazz-brunch